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- The silicone molds were placed back inside the plaster jackets and stuck in place using denture fixative (Fixadent) and a gel coat applied
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Important Kenny Announcement - Fiber Glass Resin is not nice stuff. Always use in a well ventilated area and always wear gloves!! |
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- The molds were then fiber glassed. Once dried they were removed from the molds the edges tidied up and the whole mask painted matt black
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- The resulting under mask. The jaw is not yet permanently fixed in position. Just waiting for my teeth now.
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- Acrylic teeth added - embedded in a plastic "gum" made from Polymorph plastic painted pink
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- After a few test fittings it became clear that the full dome top to the mask was going to make it too awkward to get on and off especially when covered in fur. For this reason the back of the dome was trimmed off. You should also now be able to see the springs holding the jaw shut (more details later)
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- The Under Skull was then covered in clingfilm (to protect the finished work) and then a thin layer of clay built over it to form the shape of the latex skin needed to go over the skull. A fiber glass mold was then taken ready to have a skin molded from "Dragon Skin"
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- The dragon skin was then painted onto the inside of the mold and left to dry. After several applications a sufficient thickness was built up until it could finally be pulled from the mold
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- The skin was then test fitted against the under skull and then paint applied to the areas that will show. Unfortunately I've never used Dragon Skin before so it was a bit of a learning curve. First of all I painted using latex tinted with acrylic paints but this just peeled off when it dried. Then I tried more dragon skin also tinted with acrylic paint - this failed to fully cure and remained sticky. I've now ordered some proper silicone tints and will have to clean up the skin ready for repainting again.
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- In the meantime I worked on the mechanism to get the upper lip to "snarl" when the mouth is opened. First some rubber aquarium airline tube was run along the inside of the jaw. This would provide a channel for the cable to run in. The cable had two flat pads atached to the ends from polymorph plastic. These will be attched to the dragon skin mask and the other ends attched to the lower jaw. When the lower jaw is opened it pulls on the cables raising the upper lip. (in theory)
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- The sound board arrived from Phil (neophyl) of Spartan Design. The board has ten wookie samples which are selected at random and played when the switch is tripped.
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- A hole was cut in the top of the underskull and the speaker mounted behind. The sound board mounted next to that and then the switch run down to the jaw
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- The switch is mounted so that its off when the jaw is closed and triggered when the jaw is opened.
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- A new "Dragon Skin" covering is put over the fiber glass mask and padding added to the mask interior
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